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QUOTE (Jake @ Sep 5, 2013 -> 09:45 PM)
This is me when my check engine light came on

 

LT1Fi3N.png

Been driving with the check engine light on for 3 weeks now because I was waiting until I took my car in for new brakes (and whatever else goes along with getting new brakes), which should hopefully be sometime around this weekend since I just got the money for it.

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QUOTE (DukeNukeEm @ Aug 29, 2013 -> 11:49 PM)
Look around online, get an idea for what a slightly used Nissan Altima goes for and shoot for ~$500 below that. At that point anything you get in that $500 range is gravy.

500?? I've negotiated for a lot less on used cars before albeit from a private owner. Is this really all I should look at negotiating for?

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QUOTE (Whitewashed in '05 @ Sep 6, 2013 -> 12:31 AM)
500?? I've negotiated for a lot less on used cars before albeit from a private owner. Is this really all I should look at negotiating for?

 

I think what he is saying is look around to see what other comparable cars have gone for and make your first offer $500 below what those other cars have gone for regardless of what the dealer is asking for the car you're looking at. If the dealer's asking $19,000 but they only typically sell for $18,000, start you negotiating at $17,500. The key is to be willing to walk away. The last car I bought, they were asking $23,000 and offering me $10,000 for my trade. I got them down to $21,500 for the car and up to $10,500 on my trade.

Edited by lasttriptotulsa

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QUOTE (farmteam @ Sep 5, 2013 -> 10:17 PM)
Been driving with the check engine light on for 3 weeks now because I was waiting until I took my car in for new brakes (and whatever else goes along with getting new brakes), which should hopefully be sometime around this weekend since I just got the money for it.

 

The check engine light is almost always an emissions issue. I've had a supposed cracked seal around my gas cap (even though it's a no-cap system) for months and it keeps telling me to fix it. If I don't, the check engine light comes on after a few days. I just unplug the battery for a few minutes and it goes away. It takes 2 weeks for the message to come back, so it can't be that bad.

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You can get a bluetooth OBDII module for $15-20 on Amazon and use it with an app on your phone to read CEL codes (and a whole bunch of other diagnostic information). You can reset the codes that way, too. Autozone etc. will read codes for free, too.

 

But yeah, usually it's emissions-related. Leaky gas cap seal, bad emissions control valves/solenoids, bad O2 sensor. Reading the CEL code will tell you exactly what's wrong.

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QUOTE (StrangeSox @ Sep 6, 2013 -> 08:49 AM)
You can get a bluetooth OBDII module for $15-20 on Amazon and use it with an app on your phone to read CEL codes (and a whole bunch of other diagnostic information). You can reset the codes that way, too. Autozone etc. will read codes for free, too.

 

But yeah, usually it's emissions-related. Leaky gas cap seal, bad emissions control valves/solenoids, bad O2 sensor. Reading the CEL code will tell you exactly what's wrong.

 

Do you have a code reader SS? I just got to googling the issue with my Escape and people claim that unplugging the battery does not fully erase the error code (the car has to go completely dead without electricity, and i've always had my radio stations saved so I know that hasn't happened).

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I had one of the bluetooth OBDII modules and the $5 Torque app on my phone, but I forgot the OBDII module in my wife's car when we traded it in.

 

$5 app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?...orque&hl=en

 

$10 scanner:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KL0I9...=UTF8&psc=1

 

Not as good as a $1000 SnapOn OBDII tool, but definitely helpful for routine troubleshooting.

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QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Sep 6, 2013 -> 09:21 AM)
Do you have a code reader SS? I just got to googling the issue with my Escape and people claim that unplugging the battery does not fully erase the error code (the car has to go completely dead without electricity, and i've always had my radio stations saved so I know that hasn't happened).

I'm not sure it works that way. Modern audio equipment in cars likely has stateful memory and doesn't require power to maintain that.

 

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QUOTE (StrangeSox @ Sep 6, 2013 -> 08:49 AM)
You can get a bluetooth OBDII module for $15-20 on Amazon and use it with an app on your phone to read CEL codes (and a whole bunch of other diagnostic information). You can reset the codes that way, too. Autozone etc. will read codes for free, too.

 

But yeah, usually it's emissions-related. Leaky gas cap seal, bad emissions control valves/solenoids, bad O2 sensor. Reading the CEL code will tell you exactly what's wrong.

 

In my experience, the codes never tell you exactly what's wrong. It just lists 2 or 3 possible causes. You'd actually have to take it to a shop with a diagnostic machine to know exactly what is wrong. But that costs a lot more...

 

QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Sep 6, 2013 -> 09:21 AM)
Do you have a code reader SS? I just got to googling the issue with my Escape and people claim that unplugging the battery does not fully erase the error code (the car has to go completely dead without electricity, and i've always had my radio stations saved so I know that hasn't happened).

 

The code reader itself should be able to clear the codes. Like SS mentioned, you can go to Autozone to get it done for free.

 

 

 

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A few years ago I failed an emissions test here in Nevada. They gave me the code that came up, and I did some google research and determined that it was some temperature sensor gauge was off. I was able to research how to fix that and order about $18 worth the parts. I think used youtube videos to see exactly how to replace the gauge. Saved me about $450, and knowing what the code was was the key piece of information necessary to fix it.

Edited by iamshack

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QUOTE (Iwritecode @ Sep 6, 2013 -> 11:17 AM)
In my experience, the codes never tell you exactly what's wrong. It just lists 2 or 3 possible causes. You'd actually have to take it to a shop with a diagnostic machine to know exactly what is wrong. But that costs a lot more...

 

It depends. You need some familiarity with cars, and google always helps. I diagnosed a bad EGRV solenoid and replaced it on my car using it.

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So last week I decided I needed a new truck more than I needed the cash in the bank. My needs are simple. A 1/2 ton pick up for towing, four doors for passengers, and a few comfort items.

 

My search was fairly simple Ford F150, Ram 1500, Chevy Silverado, and Toyota Tundra. Since I was internet shopping, I looked at dealerships in San Antonio (the biggest city near me) and some local shops.

Visited dealer websites for all four and requested quotes on comparably equipped vehicles. I basically had a Ford window sticker to work off of. In Texas if you can't compare your truck to the Ford, you don't know s*** about your truck.

 

Couple observations. The Toyota response was

We have many great Tundras in stock for GREAT DEALS!, when can you come in?

Ah, I can come in today, but I am not going to drive to four dealers. I am narrowing my choice down via the internet.

Yes, but, we have so many to choose from . . .

Do you have someone at the dealership that deals with internet sales? (His title was internet sales manager)

Yes, but we don't negotiate prices via email, only in person. Here is a link to an internet special Tundra ($6,000 higher than the other quotes)

So you don't actually sell any vehicles via the internet. Doesn't that make you the Internet Lead Manager?

Bye bye

 

Dodge

Competitive price, fast response, but they had a clueless dude call me to gather the same information I emailed. They are a one price shop, so besides a little help with the rebates, they did not have to do much.

 

Chevy

crickets chirping from the first dealer.

second dealer. Canned automail response. Eventually spent time trying to get me into the showroom.

 

Ford.

Back and forth over several days, the internet sales guy seemed to work hard to find all of the rebates that Ford offered. The most annoying was there were about $1500 in incentives tied to financing through Ford. If it is a cash deal, you lose that incentive. No problem I said, I'll just pay the loan in one payment. No, you really need to make a couple payments (paying close to $1000 in interest to get the $1,500 rebate). :angry: Then I remembered, one of the Boy Scout leaders I volunteered with works at a local Ford shop. Actually, he and his father own the shop. So I walked the internet deal into his store yesterday and commenced the old fashioned bartering. We laughed, we talked, he mentioned his prices, I told him mine. I laughed, he cried. He expressed skepticism that they could sell at that price and they would be losing money. I said your sales guys tell that to everyone, yet here you are still in business after a hundred years. (I think Henry Ford visited this location). So bottom line Monday they will be delivering to me a new F-150 SCREW XLT. I am giving up a few things from my old truck like HomeLink, automatic temperature control, hidden, lockable rifle storage, heated and power passenger seats. I am getting reliability and about a 25% to 30% increase in fuel efficiency. And some updated electronics like backup camera, satellite radio, power rear sliding window (WTF for I have no idea).

 

This is the first vehicle I did 90% of the work via the internet and phone. I didn't leave home until I was almost certain of making a deal. Just for kicks I checked my bank and they quoted me under 1% interest on a two year loan. I could go all the way out to six years at 2.25%. I can't believe these rates, not wonder I can't get s*** for interest on any savings.

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So after a couple months at the helm of a big rig I feel qualified to give your 4 wheelers some tips on dealing with us that will help you:

 

1. Never pass on the right. Never pass on the right. NEVER PASS ON THE RIGHT. Once the highway goes to the 3 lanes trucks will mostly camp the middle lane, this keeps us from having to get out of the way and let in merging traffic while not blocking the passing the lane. A lot of 4 wheelers take this as an invitaton to use the right lane as a 2nd passing lane. I've come very close to running over numerous cars because on the passenger's side of the truck I dont have blind spots, I have blind fields. I cant see you down there, you're underneath the field of my side mirrors and unless you're driving some lifted truck I cannot see you out the passenger window.

 

Everytime you do it you are risking death, I'm not kidding. If there's one rule you can follow around trucks its this one.

 

2. If you find yourself in the lane to the passengers side of the truck and see the right turn signal come get out of there immediately. Dont try and accelerate out either, either merge quickly into the open lane beside you or if there is no lane there brake hard and get out of the trucks way. Drivers will check their mirrors a few times after they put the signal on but there are spots where we cannot see you and if the coast looks clear we'll merge. If a truck is changing lanes its usually for a good reason, not just to get in the lane that's moving 1 or 2 mph faster than another.

 

3. Dont sabotage our following distance. This is not a dire mistake to make, but trucks try to keep 4 or 5 seconds at least between themselves and the vehicle in front of them. You stop in about 1/4 the distance we do, so we need that extra room. Taking it because you can WOT for a little and speed past traffic you're just forcing the truck to slow down and re-establish his following distance behind your dumb ass. Now we are 9 sitting 9 feet above ground, we can see traffic to the horizon so we have some pretty advance warning of slow downs. It's just a courtesy thing mostly, though if traffic is slowing and you cut in front of a truck who's hard on the brakes then brake yourself once you're in his lane he'll run you over and kill you. Dont do that, that's a bad idea.

 

4. We talk. If you do something catatrsophically dumb the message of it will get ahead and depending on who's up there they'll block you off or, if you're really unlucky, they'll corral you. Some of you have had this happen to you, maybe you didn't even know it was intentional. I dont participate in it but it happens.

 

5. Tailgating. Many drivers go crazy over this one, I really dont. You're trying to save on gas it's cool. Just know that if I lose a tire that's 100 lbs of steel and rubber flying at 60 mph towards your windshield. I take so much longer to stop than you do you'd have to struggle to rear end me. Just kinda make sure you can get in our mirrors every once and a while so we know you're there.

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To add to Duke's post

 

Be kind. When a truck is trying to change lanes, flash your lights when it is ok to move over.

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QUOTE (DukeNukeEm @ Sep 22, 2013 -> 10:56 AM)
So after a couple months at the helm of a big rig I feel qualified to give your 4 wheelers some tips on dealing with us that will help you:

 

1. Never pass on the right. Never pass on the right. NEVER PASS ON THE RIGHT. Once the highway goes to the 3 lanes trucks will mostly camp the middle lane, this keeps us from having to get out of the way and let in merging traffic while not blocking the passing the lane. A lot of 4 wheelers take this as an invitaton to use the right lane as a 2nd passing lane. I've come very close to running over numerous cars because on the passenger's side of the truck I dont have blind spots, I have blind fields. I cant see you down there, you're underneath the field of my side mirrors and unless you're driving some lifted truck I cannot see you out the passenger window.

 

Everytime you do it you are risking death, I'm not kidding. If there's one rule you can follow around trucks its this one.

 

2. If you find yourself in the lane to the passengers side of the truck and see the right turn signal come get out of there immediately. Dont try and accelerate out either, either merge quickly into the open lane beside you or if there is no lane there brake hard and get out of the trucks way. Drivers will check their mirrors a few times after they put the signal on but there are spots where we cannot see you and if the coast looks clear we'll merge. If a truck is changing lanes its usually for a good reason, not just to get in the lane that's moving 1 or 2 mph faster than another.

 

3. Dont sabotage our following distance. This is not a dire mistake to make, but trucks try to keep 4 or 5 seconds at least between themselves and the vehicle in front of them. You stop in about 1/4 the distance we do, so we need that extra room. Taking it because you can WOT for a little and speed past traffic you're just forcing the truck to slow down and re-establish his following distance behind your dumb ass. Now we are 9 sitting 9 feet above ground, we can see traffic to the horizon so we have some pretty advance warning of slow downs. It's just a courtesy thing mostly, though if traffic is slowing and you cut in front of a truck who's hard on the brakes then brake yourself once you're in his lane he'll run you over and kill you. Dont do that, that's a bad idea.

 

4. We talk. If you do something catatrsophically dumb the message of it will get ahead and depending on who's up there they'll block you off or, if you're really unlucky, they'll corral you. Some of you have had this happen to you, maybe you didn't even know it was intentional. I dont participate in it but it happens.

 

5. Tailgating. Many drivers go crazy over this one, I really dont. You're trying to save on gas it's cool. Just know that if I lose a tire that's 100 lbs of steel and rubber flying at 60 mph towards your windshield. I take so much longer to stop than you do you'd have to struggle to rear end me. Just kinda make sure you can get in our mirrors every once and a while so we know you're there.

 

 

This is BS. This means that two lanes are unusable on the interstate. It slows down traffic unnecessarily. The blind field just emphasizes that all of the more.

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Cars don't like to travel in the right lane anymore than trucks. But having driven many miles in a semi, don't stay there too long. It is a dangerous spot. In the olden days, before we had 55 mph, trucks were regulated to the right lane IIRC, which I may not. For certain they were kept out of the passing lane.

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This is BS. This means that two lanes are unusable on the interstate. It slows down traffic unnecessarily. The blind field just emphasizes that all of the more.

Honestly, if 4 wheelers just used the left lane for passing trucks, cruised at highway speeds in the middle with the trucks and the right lane was used for very slow traffic and merging on/off things would go very smoothly.

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QUOTE (DukeNukeEm @ Sep 22, 2013 -> 07:44 PM)
Honestly, if 4 wheelers just used the left lane for passing trucks, cruised at highway speeds in the middle with the trucks and the right lane was used for very slow traffic and merging on/off things would go very smoothly.

 

Cars also don't have blind spots on their right hand side. It is stupid, dangerous, and couterproductive for trucks to use up the middle lane. Again it renders two lanes of traffic useless on a three lane interstate.

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Cars also don't have blind spots on their right hand side. It is stupid, dangerous, and couterproductive for trucks to use up the middle lane. Again it renders two lanes of traffic useless on a three lane interstate.

You want to merge into a 70+ ft. long 80,000 lb monster that cannot see you?

 

And I wouldn't call trucks "useless", I mean were just enabling the American economy to function.

Edited by DukeNukeEm

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QUOTE (DukeNukeEm @ Sep 22, 2013 -> 08:44 PM)
You want to merge into a 70+ ft. long 80,000 lb monster that cannot see you?

 

And I wouldn't call trucks "useless", I mean were just enabling the American economy to function.

Duke, he called the basic elimination of use of the right lane if you are never to drive there while trucks are in the middle lane useless. Read it again. As for merging, there are a whole lot of people that need to retake driver's ed and learn that skill again, or fir the first time. I have over a million miles on the various interstates and tollways, I can't tell you how many times I have seen people just about stop (or actually stop!!!!) because they were too afraid to actually accelerate and MERGE into the flow of traffic.

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Duke, he called the basic elimination of use of the right lane if you are never to drive there while trucks are in the middle lane useless. Read it again. As for merging, there are a whole lot of people that need to retake driver's ed and learn that skill again, or fir the first time. I have over a million miles on the various interstates and tollways, I can't tell you how many times I have seen people just about stop (or actually stop!!!!) because they were too afraid to actually accelerate and MERGE into the flow of traffic.

But I didn't say never drive there. I just said dont use that lane to pass a truck because its very risky. Its really not that difficult to pass a truck in the middle lane from the right lane. You just take your time a little getting over, pass, then go back to the middle.

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QUOTE (DukeNukeEm @ Sep 22, 2013 -> 09:24 PM)
But I didn't say never drive there. I just said dont use that lane to pass a truck because its very risky. Its really not that difficult to pass a truck in the middle lane from the right lane. You just take your time a little getting over, pass, then go back to the middle.

 

If trucks are using the middle lane and having some sort of an exclusive blocking of the right lane for any usage, that makes it kind of difficult. You would think the most dangerous vehicles on the road would think about the other ones on the road.

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Oh we do, which is why we aren't in the right lane. Because it pretty quickly turns into "THIS DAMN TRUCK ISN'T LETTING ME ON THE EXPRESSWAY GOD." The passengers side blind spot isn't something we chose to have, its a reality of our vehicles that is really unavoidable.

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