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Which Landscaping service do you use?


smalls2598
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Dandelions are killing my lawn, and it just seems to be getting worse.

 

I had Tru Green give me a quote the other day, but after reading up on them online, they appear to have some shady practices, and many negative reviews. I also had a quote from Spring Green come in the mail, but they also seem to get negative reviews everywhere I look.

 

I'm looking for a recommendation on landscapers to weed and feed my lawn. Please let me know who you use, and if you'd recommend them.

 

Thanks.

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QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 12:00 PM)
Go buy one or two of these (depending on the size of your lawn) and wait about three days. Problem solved.

That s*** is fantastic, it took care of clover that I had spreading in my backyard two years ago almost instantly. Now that s*** never comes back.

 

Once you get rid of the dandelions. FEED YOUR LAWN. FEED IT!

 

I tried a service last year (Dr. Green) and realized it's easier and cheaper to do it myself. Use Scott's Turf Builder 2 + Weed Control. I put that s*** on my lawn a month ago and have yet to see a single weed.

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QUOTE (Steve9347 @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 12:08 PM)
That s*** is fantastic, it took care of clover that I had spreading in my backyard two years ago almost instantly. Now that s*** never comes back.

 

Once you get rid of the dandelions. FEED YOUR LAWN. FEED IT!

 

I tried a service last year (Dr. Green) and realized it's easier and cheaper to do it myself. Use Scott's Turf Builder 2 + Weed Control. I put that s*** on my lawn a month ago and have yet to see a single weed.

 

Yeah I ended up buying the 4 bags for the seasonal feeds and have been pretty happy with it. In reality that's all these lawn companies do - they charge you 100 bucks to do what would cost you about 20 bucks and some time/effort.

 

Unfortunately my backyard got hit with some kind of bug, most likely grubs. So I have some awesome dead patches that need fixing. My once perfectly flat, green and weed-free yard is now patchy with holes (once you pull out the dead patches there's a big indentation an inch or so deep).

 

Ah, home ownership.

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I have a rather small yard, as my pool takes up the entire back, however, the front of my house/city front I do all on my own. I don't have a ton of grass, but the grass I have looks like a baseball field. I can add pictures later if anyone would like.

 

I do a few things, on my own, every year.

 

The problem I've found with landscaping services is while they often do everything you need, they do it at the wrong times of the year unless you pay them for sustained services. If you allow them to maintain everything all year (as in you pay them weekly/monthly for sustained services, they will do everything at the proper time, otherwise they tend to do it all at once and move on to their next client.

 

1) Aeration. Only do this in late spring/late summer, as at other times of the year, you create the perfect environment for weeds to cultivate/spread. Ideally, you want to do it off weed season, or when your grass is growing very fast.

 

2) Grub kill. Do this early/mid spring. I use GrubEx...requires just 1 application per year.

 

3) Weed kill w/Crabgrass control. Do this early/mid spring, and not the same week you do a grub kill. Early/mid spring is when crabgrass begins spreading.

 

4) General weed kill other various times of the year if you see weeds starting to sprout. I will either use Weed-b-Gone if all I'm looking to do is kill weeds, or Scotts Super-Turf Builder 2 if fertilizer is needed in addition to a weed kill. Fertilizer is mostly nitrogen, which is what turns grass dark green, so I only use it if I see my grass turning lighter. If you over-fertilize, you'll get brown spots or areas of weakened grass...try to avoid this as over-fertilization is one of the most common mistakes people make.

 

5) Thatching (or as some call it, de-thatching), only as needed. If you have more than 1/4" of thatch, you probably have too much and should remove some with a thatching rake/mower. If you don't know what thatch is, look into it. ;)

 

6) Watering. If your grass gets an absolute ton of sunshine, it will need some water to prevent it from drying out. Just water as needed. You don't have to water every day like a lot of people insist on doing, however.

 

As for doing it on your own like I do, it's easy for me since I don't have a lot of grass, but people that do would need more machinery to do it properly. For example, you wouldn't want to use a thatching rake on huge hard...you'd break your back. :D

Edited by Y2HH
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Adding a few pictures for reference. :D Those of you that hate Y2HH, don't be using Google to track me down and come kill me now. :(

 

house.jpg

 

Ignore the clump of leaves that blew onto the lawn in the front there...they do NOT belong!

 

house1.jpg

 

And yes, I know I need to redo my railing. ;)

Edited by Y2HH
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Thanks for the quick responses, guys.

 

My problem is that I have a corner lot, and a decent amount of grass to maintain. The other problem is that I have a puppy, and I'm really skeptical on putting anything on the lawn, but it's so bad now, something has to be done. I've never actually done any of this before, just dealt with the minimal amount of weeds that were there. But it seems to be much worse this year, and quite frankly, embarrassing.

 

I'll going to begin researching what you guys all recommended.

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QUOTE (smalls2598 @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 01:07 PM)
Thanks for the quick responses, guys.

 

My problem is that I have a corner lot, and a decent amount of grass to maintain. The other problem is that I have a puppy, and I'm really skeptical on putting anything on the lawn, but it's so bad now, something has to be done. I've never actually done any of this before, just dealt with the minimal amount of weeds that were there. But it seems to be much worse this year, and quite frankly, embarrassing.

 

I'll going to begin researching what you guys all recommended.

 

Yes, be careful with the puppy and these chemicals. After you apply them, keep the dog (and any children) off your grass for a few hours, especially if you use Grub killer and weed killer. Fertilizer isn't so dangerous, and you can re-enter your lawn right after you apply it and lightly water it down. But be careful because of a lot of fertilizer is mixed with weed killer.

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QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 12:21 PM)
Unfortunately my backyard got hit with some kind of bug, most likely grubs. So I have some awesome dead patches that need fixing. My once perfectly flat, green and weed-free yard is now patchy with holes (once you pull out the dead patches there's a big indentation an inch or so deep).

Grubs tore up my lawn last year (The roots didn't exist). One application of grub-x in the spring (about this time last year) and the lawn was looking great by june.

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QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 01:59 PM)
I put some down the last two weekends. Hopefully that solved the problem. I'm also having issues with clover. I didn't realize the weed spray took care of that. Might have to do a 2nd application.

 

Make sure you space it out a few weeks, you're only supposed to use Weed-B-Gone 2 times per season, or so...

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QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 01:59 PM)
I put some down the last two weekends. Hopefully that solved the problem. I'm also having issues with clover. I didn't realize the weed spray took care of that. Might have to do a 2nd application.

If you already hit them, make sure clover was listed and pictured on the front. Some don't do clover. However, if the one you used did state it took care of clover, be patient. It will be gone.

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QUOTE (SnB @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 02:10 PM)
I'm closing on a house this week w/ a backyard the size of a football field. I'm pumped about it, but also a little frightened about how much work it might be.

 

Mine isn't nearly that big, but it's still sizeable (~100x50 at least). My recommendation - stay on it. Our place was professionally landscaped (to sell) and we thought it would just come back the next year and be fine. HA. Nope. It took weekends of weeding/digging to get it back to it's former glory. It's one of those things where if you spend 15-20 minutes every few days, it'll stay clean. If not you're looking at weekend(s) of work.

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QUOTE (Jenksismyb**** @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 02:56 PM)
Mine isn't nearly that big, but it's still sizeable (~100x50 at least). My recommendation - stay on it. Our place was professionally landscaped (to sell) and we thought it would just come back the next year and be fine. HA. Nope. It took weekends of weeding/digging to get it back to it's former glory. It's one of those things where if you spend 15-20 minutes every few days, it'll stay clean. If not you're looking at weekend(s) of work.

 

This is exactly it...

 

People tend to not bother, and let problems build up over the course weeks/months before they decide to do something...and then it can be days of work and weeks of waiting, on top of additional work.

 

Just spend the time up keeping it and it will mostly stay nice...if there is an issue, get too it sooner than later. Don't put it off. If you see small spots start to form and think you have grubs, get on it immediately, don't wait! Like my grass is pretty nice, and all I really do is mow it/edge it and once in a while spray some weed killer/grub killer on it...30 minutes max per week.

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QUOTE (SnB @ Apr 24, 2012 -> 02:10 PM)
I'm closing on a house this week w/ a backyard the size of a football field. I'm pumped about it, but also a little frightened about how much work it might be.

Re-painting end zones is a b****, better get that professionally done the first time.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm using Milorganite fertilizer this year. It's derived from Milwaukee's wastewater treatment facilities. The nitrogen is slow-release so there's less run-off (huge problem for waterways) and lasts longer, plus there's little or no salt unlike a lot of chemical fertilizers. Safe for food crops, too, so you can use it in the garden.

 

It also works as a deer repellent if you have that problem.

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