The Pet Thread

[Kyyle23]

The pen is probably a bad idea. I'd stick him in the crate until he's older and can be trusted not to destroy the house. People think it's cruel to lock dogs up, but they like it, it's their little cove where they can feel protected and sleep. The crate also helps with the potty training because they won't go if they have to lie in it. So long as you feed him/let him have some water, then let him out, then put him in the crate without anything he should be able to hold it for a few hours.

 

The barking thing you just have to fight through. Maybe put a towel over it. If he's learned that barking = being let out then you gotta break him of that. Also don't make a big deal out of saying goodbye for the day. I've read that compounds the problem.

 

I agree with all of us. Crate training is very good for housetraining, and some pups will drive themselves nuts barking, but they eventually stop. The Malamute we had when I was in HS sounded like she was getting murdered every night she was in her crate, and for like a month to 2 months it was not easy sleeping, but she got through it.

 

 

Crate training is also good because it teaches the dogs not to go to the bathroom where they sleep, and if you put the dog in that little pen with puppy pads it could possibly do the reverse.

[iamshack]

Thanks to everyone on the board for their insights on my new pup. I forgot how difficult and stressful a new pup is (he makes up for it by being really freaking cute).

 

Both my fiance and I are professionals. She worked from home last week to help the pup adjust. I live close enough to work that I can get home at lunch to let the little man out until he's old enough for doggy daycare.

 

We have his crate in the living room and set up an exercise pen (6x6) outside the crate to give him a play area. Lined the pen space with puppy pads to try to minimize the damage from the inevitable accidents.

 

Today was the first day with this arrangement. I came home at lunch and he had a couple accidents on the floor. I'm not overly concerned by the accidents because, well, he's a 9 week old puppy. The biggest issue seems to be that, with the sole exception of bedtime, when he's left in the crate, even if one of us is home, he barks until he makes himself sick. I've been feeding him in the crate and he goes in and out of the crate on his own so it's not the crate that's bugging him; it's the separation. He just freaks out when the crate latch clicks (again, with the sole exception of bedtime). Any suggestions on how to handle that adjustment?

 

My other question is, should I not put up the exercise pen during the day? Putting the pen up was our way of acknowledging that accidents are going to happen in the 4 hours he's home alone in the morning and afternoon and that it will be more comfortable for him if the accident is outside the crate. I know he can hold it for 4+ hours because he does so at night and when he's napping during the day. But he's not used to me working and his biological clock hasn't figured out that someone will be home at noon everyday...

 

Long winded, I know...

I did basically the same thing with my Great Dane pup when I first started leaving him...I left his crate open and then had a playpen type thing set up with toys and then some puppy pads. He did pretty well with just going on the pads. Then pretty soon he learned how to get out of the pen and surprisingly didn't really do anything bad except some minor chewing on the furniture, which I was prepared to tolerate. He picked up the potty training pretty well and when he did go, I realized it was because he just really had to go and I wasn't home to let him out. I wasn't able to come home at lunch like you are and so I actually hired someone to come visit with him for a half hour or so.

 

I don't think the play area is a bad idea as long as he learns to go on those pads. If he doesn't, it might be better to just keep him in the crate like Jenks said. Either way, just realize you chose a VERY ACTIVE dog. It is imperative that you EXERCISE the hell out of him. I'm not sure if he is fully vaccinated yet, but once he is, find a big dog park and take him there to run run run. This will help the barking and his general sense of restlessness. The most important thing for any dog - probably as much or more than diet, is proper exercise. You'll be amazed at how the proper amount of exercise will help you in every other facet of life with him.

[iamshack]

I agree with all of us. Crate training is very good for housetraining, and some pups will drive themselves nuts barking, but they eventually stop. The Malamute we had when I was in HS sounded like she was getting murdered every night she was in her crate, and for like a month to 2 months it was not easy sleeping, but she got through it.

 

 

Crate training is also good because it teaches the dogs not to go to the bathroom where they sleep, and if you put the dog in that little pen with puppy pads it could possibly do the reverse.

Dogs should instinctually avoid eliminating where they sleep. Usually the only time they will do this is if there is no other alternative. As long as he does come home to let the dog out at lunch he should be fine but the dog should also pick up that it can go on the pads (put them as far away from the crate as possible) if it does have to go.

 

My dog started ripping them up though as soon as he stopped needing to use them and so I eventually just stopped using them.

[illinilaw08]

I did basically the same thing with my Great Dane pup when I first started leaving him...I left his crate open and then had a playpen type thing set up with toys and then some puppy pads. He did pretty well with just going on the pads. Then pretty soon he learned how to get out of the pen and surprisingly didn't really do anything bad except some minor chewing on the furniture, which I was prepared to tolerate. He picked up the potty training pretty well and when he did go, I realized it was because he just really had to go and I wasn't home to let him out. I wasn't able to come home at lunch like you are and so I actually hired someone to come visit with him for a half hour or so.

 

I don't think the play area is a bad idea as long as he learns to go on those pads. If he doesn't, it might be better to just keep him in the crate like Jenks said. Either way, just realize you chose a VERY ACTIVE dog. It is imperative that you EXERCISE the hell out of him. I'm not sure if he is fully vaccinated yet, but once he is, find a big dog park and take him there to run run run. This will help the barking and his general sense of restlessness. The most important thing for any dog - probably as much or more than diet, is proper exercise. You'll be amazed at how the proper amount of exercise will help you in every other facet of life with him.

 

He hasn't figured out what the pads are for yet. In fact, he actually thinks they are chew toys.

 

The barking has ONLY been an issue when he is put in his crate and the latch shuts. We have a fenced in backyard and the little guy loves tearing around out there. I have been devoting the vast majority of my time at home to exercising him. At this point, about an hour of consistent running turns into three hours of naptime. I think he really just hates being left alone...

 

He gets his final vaccinations next Monday and there is a big dog park down the street from our house. I'm also looking forward to taking him running with me, but I know that won't happen until he's at least a year old. Any thoughts on leash training young pups?

 

As always, thank you for the advice; the pet thread is amazing.

[iamshack]

He hasn't figured out what the pads are for yet. In fact, he actually thinks they are chew toys.

 

The barking has ONLY been an issue when he is put in his crate and the latch shuts. We have a fenced in backyard and the little guy loves tearing around out there. I have been devoting the vast majority of my time at home to exercising him. At this point, about an hour of consistent running turns into three hours of naptime. I think he really just hates being left alone...

 

He gets his final vaccinations next Monday and there is a big dog park down the street from our house. I'm also looking forward to taking him running with me, but I know that won't happen until he's at least a year old. Any thoughts on leash training young pups?

 

As always, thank you for the advice; the pet thread is amazing.

As for the puppy pads, you can try using newspaper as well, but some dogs just don't seem to get it. The pads are supposed to be scented so that he instinctually wants to mark them, but that does not always work. What you can try to do is to dip them in a little of the urine where he went elsewhere, and then leave them there, and he might figure out that that is what they are meant for in that manner.

 

The separation, you just have to put him through it like Jenks and Kyle said. You're just training him for what the reality of his life is going to be, and that is time spent alone. Eventually when he gets accustomed to it he will grow to like it or tolerate it. If you can get up and take him for a walk before you leave for work or play with him in the yard a bit that may help.

 

As for leash training, you want to train him to walk at your pace or behind you even, not in front of you and not leading or dragging you. Any time he begins to pull ahead, you make a quick tug on his leash to correct him. If he continues to try and lead, you refuse to move until he realizes YOU are the one walking him, and not vice versa. Quick corrections are the key to teaching him this. Not huge mean whiplash tugs, but quick jerks every time he tries to pull ahead. It can seem impossible at first, but it works with repetition.

 

Illini...one suggestion I have...pick up the books How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend and The Art of Raising a Puppy, both by The Monks of New Skete. These are the best books on dog training and dog behavior that I am aware of.

Edited February 20, 2012 by iamshack

[Brian]

Maybe take the puppy pads he has peed on outside with him so he can sniff them out there and associate the two? Has to be hard house training a puppy when you work all day. I got my puppy during the summer when the most he was alone was two hours in his crate. Easier to train.

 

Be firm with your NOs towards the mess, not the pup. Praise like crazy with rewards when he goes outside.

[Iwritecode]

As for leash training, you want to train him to walk at your pace or behind you even, not in front of you and not leading or dragging you. Any time he begins to pull ahead, you make a quick tug on his leash to correct him. If he continues to try and lead, you refuse to move until he realizes YOU are the one walking him, and not vice versa. Quick corrections are the key to teaching him this. Not huge mean whiplash tugs, but quick jerks every time he tries to pull ahead. It can seem impossible at first, but it works with repetition.

 

We had our dog in training classes and they said not to use that method. They had a greyhound as their personal dog and I guess another trainer did that and it jarred the greyhound so badly that it wouldn't go anywhere on the leash for 2 weeks.

 

The method we were taught was to hold the leash towards the bottom right against your leg so the dog doesn't have a lot of slack to fall behind or get ahead. Once it gets used to walking in that position you can gradually let the leash out.

 

When we moved up to the advanced training class (same place, different trainers) they taught the jerking method of correction. When they took our dog and did it her front feet were literally coming off the floor. We left and never went back.

 

Another method I've seen to start walking and if the dog gets too far ahead immediately turn around and walk the other direction. Eventually the dog will get the hint that he needs to stay behind/beside you.

[iamshack]

We had our dog in training classes and they said not to use that method. They had a greyhound as their personal dog and I guess another trainer did that and it jarred the greyhound so badly that it wouldn't go anywhere on the leash for 2 weeks.

 

The method we were taught was to hold the leash towards the bottom right against your leg so the dog doesn't have a lot of slack to fall behind or get ahead. Once it gets used to walking in that position you can gradually let the leash out.

 

When we moved up to the advanced training class (same place, different trainers) they taught the jerking method of correction. When they took our dog and did it her front feet were literally coming off the floor. We left and never went back.

 

Another method I've seen to start walking and if the dog gets too far ahead immediately turn around and walk the other direction. Eventually the dog will get the hint that he needs to stay behind/beside you.

The problem lies in the amount of force they're using, not the method. It's just a quick jerk. You're not jarring the dog and you're not lifting his feet off the ground. If you're doing that, you're yanking way too hard. You want to do it just enough to get his attention, no harder.

[G&T]

Maybe take the puppy pads he has peed on outside with him so he can sniff them out there and associate the two? Has to be hard house training a puppy when you work all day. I got my puppy during the summer when the most he was alone was two hours in his crate. Easier to train.

 

Be firm with your NOs towards the mess, not the pup. Praise like crazy with rewards when he goes outside.

 

That makes no sense. There is no purpose to yelling at the mess. The dog isn't going to understand. You just clean it and don't acknowledge it at all. Giving any form of reaction to the problem is just as likely to give him the impression that he can piss you off by doing that.

[Iwritecode]

The problem lies in the amount of force they're using, not the method. It's just a quick jerk. You're not jarring the dog and you're not lifting his feet off the ground. If you're doing that, you're yanking way too hard. You want to do it just enough to get his attention, no harder.

 

I understand how it's supposed to be done. But I've also seen that it's possible for people that are supposed to know what they are doing to do it incorrectly. The other methods I described take that risk away.

 

There were other things the trainers did that I didn't like as well. One of them was getting the dog to sit when you stop by literally stepping on their back foot.

[iamshack]

I understand how it's supposed to be done. But I've also seen that it's possible for people that are supposed to know what they are doing to do it incorrectly. The other methods I described take that risk away.

 

There were other things the trainers did that I didn't like as well. One of them was getting the dog to sit when you stop by literally stepping on their back foot.

I'm sorry, I didn't mean to make it seem like there was only one way to leash train. There are many, I'm sure. I was just trying to make it clear that you don't need to yank the dog off it's feet to correct it. It's just using enough force for the dog to understand what you're telling him.

 

People should feel free to use whatever training methods they feel comfortable with and what works best for them.

[Jenksismyhero]

I understand how it's supposed to be done. But I've also seen that it's possible for people that are supposed to know what they are doing to do it incorrectly. The other methods I described take that risk away.

 

There were other things the trainers did that I didn't like as well. One of them was getting the dog to sit when you stop by literally stepping on their back foot.

 

I always laugh at the 15 million ways to train a dog that are out there. Dogs are just like people - what works for one won't work for another. It depends on the breed, but can even depend on the temperament of the individual dog. Good dog ownership is to be knowledgeable about the various styles of training and to adapt to how your dog responds.

 

And i'm convinced that some dogs will just never get "it" on certain things. I have an incredibly smart and obedient 6 year old boston terrier. She's very well behaved except for leading on the leash. It's been a fight since day one and she's never, ever gotten it. After 15-20 minutes of being walked she'll slow down and walk the right way, but right off the bat? No chance. Way too much excitement over it. I just learned to adapt by using a body harness on her instead of the neck collar.

[Brian]

That makes no sense. There is no purpose to yelling at the mess. The dog isn't going to understand. You just clean it and don't acknowledge it at all. Giving any form of reaction to the problem is just as likely to give him the impression that he can piss you off by doing that.

 

Worked great for me. Got it out of a training book. They don't want you to yell at the dog for going. Dog understood very quick.

[G&T]

I understand how it's supposed to be done. But I've also seen that it's possible for people that are supposed to know what they are doing to do it incorrectly. The other methods I described take that risk away.

 

There were other things the trainers did that I didn't like as well. One of them was getting the dog to sit when you stop by literally stepping on their back foot.

 

No training method is perfect for every dog, but some trainers are just abusive. The best method I found is to have treats to make sure the dog keeps his focus on you and not on everything around him. You just give fewer treats as he gets more successful at it.

 

When my dog was young he was great at walking on the leash but as he grew up he was interested in other things.

I don't live in a city setting so his safety isn't constantly dependant on good leash manners. My dog really doesn't care about walking around my neighborhood. He would rather sniff everything and roll in the grass or play fetch. But, if I take him on a hike somewhere he never goes I can trust him to be off leash and never get more than 20 feet from me while he explores. If he gets too far he responds well to commands and he can have that freedom.

 

He has visited several cities and he will walk next to me without much hassle. He ignore people unless they approach him. Again, he is interested in the new place and handles it very well.

Edit: I don't know what the point of this post was. I guess, it's more important that the dog adapt to your lifestyle rather than ensuring he can do everything perfectly (because he won't).

Edited February 21, 2012 by G&T

[iamshack]

No training method is perfect for every dog, but some trainers are just abusive. The best method I found is to have treats to make sure the dog keeps his focus on you and not on everything around him. You just give fewer treats as he gets more successful at it.

 

When my dog was young he was great at walking on the leash but as he grew up he was interested in other things.

I don't live in a city setting so his safety isn't constantly dependant on good leash manners. My dog really doesn't care about walking around my neighborhood. He would rather sniff everything and roll in the grass or play fetch. But, if I take him on a hike somewhere he never goes I can trust him to be off leash and never get more than 20 feet from me while he explores. If he gets too far he responds well to commands and he can have that freedom.

 

He has visited several cities and he will walk next to me without much hassle. He ignore people unless they approach him. Again, he is interested in the new place and handles it very well.

Edit: I don't know what the point of this post was. I guess, it's more important that the dog adapt to your lifestyle rather than ensuring he can do everything perfectly (because he won't).

Hah, my Great Dane will pull and choke himself if he is on a leash but if I take him off it he'll just walk next to me...and never really go too far from me if we are in the park or hiking in the mountains. I guess it's because I rarely take him for walks on his leash, but instead have always taken him to places where he can be off leash.

[hogan873]

Our pug was a bit difficult to housetrain, but once he understood that he can't pee or poop in the house (a firm "NO!' while showing him the mess worked), he has been very good about it.

 

But, the sneaky dog, knowing he gets a treat after going outside to go, will double up by having me let him out and then 20 minutes later waits by the door for my wife or kids to let him out.

[G&T]

Hah, my Great Dane will pull and choke himself if he is on a leash but if I take him off it he'll just walk next to me...and never really go too far from me if we are in the park or hiking in the mountains. I guess it's because I rarely take him for walks on his leash, but instead have always taken him to places where he can be off leash.

 

We walk him a lot on leash at parks because we have to. But he has been trained to play off leash so he can fetch and play with other dogs and not run off.

 

Fetch might be the most important thing you can teach a dog for your sanity and for his health. They have a lot more energy than we do and it makes life a lot easier when you can throw a ball and he will tire himself out and get good exercise.

 

But they do push boundaries when you first let them off the leash. That's a bit scary.

[Brian]

Our pug was a bit difficult to housetrain, but once he understood that he can't pee or poop in the house (a firm "NO!' while showing him the mess worked), he has been very good about it.

 

But, the sneaky dog, knowing he gets a treat after going outside to go, will double up by having me let him out and then 20 minutes later waits by the door for my wife or kids to let him out.

 

My pup is the same way. I only started rewarding him for going out and pooping. Not for his little tinkles. It's kind of working.

[iamshack]

Picked up another Great Dane pup on Friday. He's the offspring of the same parents of my other Dane.

 

So far he's been wonderful. Completely potty-trained and very laid back, but not afraid to assert himself when needed either.

 

This completes my 3-dog pack for the foreseeable future.

 

Picked up some new dry food for him that is grain-free and meat-based called Acana out of Canada. Anyone have any experience with this food yet?

[Kyyle23]

Shack, pretty soon you will be the one eating the crappy food just to keep your dogs fed

 

3 Danes!!

[iamshack]

Shack, pretty soon you will be the one eating the crappy food just to keep your dogs fed

 

3 Danes!!

Hah, I already am!

 

I only have two though...the other is my "smart" dog...he's a Golden/wolf-something I picked up in a shelter last Thanksgiving...he's going to keep the Danes in line and from doing their best Marmaduke impressions

[IlliniKrush]

New puppy coming in a few weeks. It'll be a Shichon. What is on the "must have" list before we get it?

 

Crate (towels or blankets too?)

Food (what kind?)

Treats

Toys

Collar

Leash

Bowls for food/water

Bed?

 

Probably a good start, but what am I missing?

Edited March 15, 2012 by IlliniKrush

[knightni]

New puppy coming in a few weeks. It'll be a Shichon. What is on the "must have" list before we get it?

 

Crate (towels or blankets too?)

Food (what kind?)

Treats

Toys

Collar

Leash

Bowls for food/water

Bed?

 

Probably a good start, but what am I missing?

Puppy potty pads in case of emergencies.

[Brian]

New puppy coming in a few weeks. It'll be a Shichon. What is on the "must have" list before we get it?

 

Crate (towels or blankets too?)

Food (what kind?)

Treats

Toys

Collar

Leash

Bowls for food/water

Bed?

 

Probably a good start, but what am I missing?

 

Plenty of toys to shew on so he doesn't chew on your furniture. My dog still loves ropes. Still plays with this little squeaky basketball I have had since he was a pup. About a year and a half now.

 

Different people have different opinions of raw hide bones. I love em. Doesn't upset my dogs stomach and keeps him occupied for an hour. Wears him out as well. Get smaller ones and go bigger as he/she gets bigger.

 

I recommend puppy food from Purina or Pedigree. Before my pup got his teeth, we mixed some puppy food with soft stuff like Nutro for a couple of months than went to hard food he is on now.

[G&T]

New puppy coming in a few weeks. It'll be a Shichon. What is on the "must have" list before we get it?

 

Crate (towels or blankets too?)

Food (what kind?)

Treats

Toys

Collar

Leash

Bowls for food/water

Bed?

 

Probably a good start, but what am I missing?

 

Looks like a good list. Remember to redirect their chewing from bad things to acceptable things consistently, so have plenty of chew toys.

 

As for food, do your research. I feed Wellness because it is high quality but easily available if we are traveling. Some foods are very expensive and hard to get if you aren't at home. So consider what you can afford versus quality.